Benaras — From the spirit of a traveller

Benaras, also famously known as Kashi or Varanasi has become one of those places I feel ‘called to’ every year for the last few years. I chose to write about Benaras because every time I visit, it evokes new emotions, a more expanded view of life, and all the things that have constantly served my overall well-being.

For those who are not familiar with this incredibly diverse and inclusive town, picture this:

The sight of Siberian birds during the sunrise,

The vibrations, sounds and serenity of river Ganga flanked by the wet soil of this auspicious land,

The chanting of mantras on mics echoed simultaneously — some authentic, others dramatic,

The people watching on the banks of river Ganga and listening to many stories of the gods that reside in the land of Benaras,

The endless narrow lanes carrying the mind-boggling stories and delicacies unique to the people living in this town,

The people of Benaras want you to experience this moment of freedom that they live with every single day without an ounce of worry in the world,

The Benaras that I am now so curious about,

The Benaras that is now included in me,

The Benaras that I will keep returning to always.

When I visited for the first time, I went with my family for a religious annual trip. I had reached out to my ‘influential’ contacts who let me do the VIP darshan and we were all treated like VIPs. I didn’t need to stand in any queues and as a result of a privileged darshan at all the popular temples, got some eye rolls from those who had been waiting for their turn to get a peak-a-boo and ‘prasad’ of their favourite deity and instead I got that opportunity before them.

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By the time, I went for the second time, the (not so) organized chaos and the street food had become less overpowering because I was mentally prepared to get a local experience no matter what. Turns out, that there was no better way to experience the pulse of such a vast, complex and multi-layered mystical town as a traveller. Although my mother and her best friend of 50 years (yes their friendship has crossed that milestone!) had come along during my second visit.

To get a more immersive flavour of the city, in 2024, I went solo and booked a hotel that was 200 meters away from the ghat flanked by houses that were built over 5000 years back, graffiti walls, each telling a story from an artist’s point of view, and countless monkeys who were ready to snatch my snack. Locals were very friendly and happily indulged me in the fascinating stories storytelling of the past. I liked going for serene morning walks on the ghat, visiting the temple, and on the way feeding the seagulls while inhaling a few long breaths during sunrise — it was all so beautiful! In the background, mics would continue to echo chants. Some people enjoyed their early morning tea on the ghat. For lunch, choices were immense if one was willing to explore the narrow lanes of the town. One of my favourite spots was Blue Lassi Cafe. I spent a lot of time glaring at the walls filled with heartfelt notes written by Lassi lovers from all over the world and they had over 24 flavours! In the evenings, I loved to play my handspan syncing it with the evening chants , echoing from the other side of the river — as I watched the sun go down against the backdrop of the oldest city of India.

I spent a lot of time sitting near Manikarnika ghat witnessing the irony of life and death for the next few days. It was heartbreaking to see the family members carry the lifeless bodies of their loved ones and burn those the next moment, spend a few minutes in grief and move on, while just a few feet away, tourists enjoyed their day dressed up gaudily, clicking selfies with the burning pyre as a backdrop — such is an irony of life! According to Hindu culture (and stories if to be believed), those who get their final rites in Kashi, attain ‘Moksha’/nirvana. In fact, I visited ‘Mumuksha Bhawan’ in Kashi, a school that teaches students the ancient language of Sanskrit so they can read Hindu spiritual texts to carry forward this knowledge.

If you have a spiritual calling, I recommend meditating at Kashi Vishwanath temple, Shakti peetha right behind the Kashi Vishwanath, Durga temple, Sankat Mochan, and Kala-bhairav temple after the darshan at least for 20–30 minutes in silence. I could go on and on but I am leaving the rest for your discovery.

Ensure safe and responsible travel to Benaras (take what resonates, leave the rest):

1. Be open to a healthy mix of spontaneity and a solid plan for accommodation.

2. Before booking a hotel, book through a reference or look for legitimate customer reviews of the hotels you shortlist.

3. Please keep the city clean. Majority of people throw trash within arm’s distance of wherever they are standing which is not helping the city stay clean. Please do not follow suit and throw trash in city bins or carry it with you..

4. Google a bit about the town so locals can validate your information regarding food, and shopping. Kashi is a renowned hub for exquisite handwoven Benarasi sarees — they are GORGEOUS!

5. Buy from locals and small shops — help the local economy and smaller businesses thrive.

6. Please keep your belongings close to you. The town is congested and you don’t want to get your pocket picked.

7. Most important — Enjoy your time!

There isn’t much to worry about when you go to Kashi even as a solo traveller. As the locals say ‘Mahadev will look into all of your matters so you can simply surrender, be FREE and LIVE’.You can also read it here.